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Bunun gibi bir alet arıyorum cat6 tutacak kamera işi yapıyoruz yakında ülkeme starlink gelicek onunla kurulumunda kullanmak istiyorum

Either method is permitted. The term "Continuous", in this case, as used in 250.64(C), applies ONLY to the Grounding Electrode Conductor (GEC) between the panel/bus bar/bonding point, and the initial grounding electrode. (See Art.100, "Grounding Electrode Conductor"). That "first" conductor to the ground rod must be "continuous" (not spliced, tapped, or interrupted) EXCEPT by the methods & means indicated in 250.64(C)(1-4). The addition of more than one grounding electrode (ground rod) is permitted, and the interconnection "bonding jumpers" to the additional electrode(s) would need to comply with 250.53(C) and 250.70(A), which specifies, "Listed... lugs, pressure connectors, clamps, or other listed means". However, there is NO requirement that the conductor itself (between the electrodes) be "continuous", i.e., a single, uninterrupted conductor. Multiple conductors, terminated into listed clamps at each rod, is permitted. Therefore, if the connector (i.e., "Acorn nut) ") is "listed" (and/or approved) for only a single conductor, then only one may be put under the clamp. If necessary, for multiple conductors, two (or more) clamps may be used... or a single clamp with a single, continuous conductor passing through it, as shown in the video. Lastly, since multiple grounding electrodes are not "required" (with the exception of a high resistance/impedance situation requirement), any additional ground rods would likely fall under 250.54, and would be basically exempted from the requirements of 250.50 and 250.53(C). With all that said, no doubt the "best practice" would be the image shown on the left (a continuous conductor passing through). However, either method SHOULD be acceptable, according to NEC. Unfortunately, some "Local Code" addendums might supersede and/or override the NEC requirements, and as such, the local AHJ may or may not approve of one or the other. Sometimes inspectors get a little uppity about such things, regardless of what the Code says...😁 I'm a ham radio operator, and have a large ground electrode system for my radio gear (also bonded back to my primary utility/house panel electrode). It consists of four 5/8"x8-foot driven rods, all interconnected via #2awg solid CU (buried at about 18-inches). The connection at each rod used the "continuous" method and listed acorn clamps.

All Disposals come factory installed cored and non corded...You simply need to check the part number on the box.

Brand new homes use conduit for ground

Has anybody ever told you you sound like Scotty Kilmer…???🤔🤔🤔

so he had to run a ground wire from the meter panel or not if not? In my head it sounds like you said he doesnt need a ground wire ran bc at the meter panel the netrual lug is bonded to enclosure.

So if I'm understanding correctly, a panel like square d SC816F200PS main service panel that comes with built in main bonding jumper does not need a green bonding screw even when a residence has a sub panel connected to it? Hence why square d doesn't supply one in this panel

Its like having a Ferrari with a chevy engine...you gotta have your own batteries...top line tool company with another manufacturers battery...bad look

suppose I want to put the receptacle in the box that doesn't have the power feed wire coming in?

Where to purchase this head?

you can use Milwaukee staples on the dewalt but Milwaukee won't work with the dewalt staples.

You're going to double check to make sure that there are no Hot wires at all in this box?

The right side slot of the receptacle is the hot positive side?

Why are two prong receptacles still made and sold?

I guess this solved the “service loop” argument.

It worked 💪 Thank you 🙏

Using the drill to take off flathead outlet screws kills me! Good content otherwise :)

I must say, that I like the new Wago connectors, because they require a lot less force, than the older ones. Also in Germany every electricians uses Wagos, because it saves you so much time and you don't need ferrules for flexible wires.

I've seen 100s of videos talking about 3 way switches and never understood them 100% this man has made SO EASY for me to understand it.... Thank you

Good basic troubleshooting for new folk. More of that needs posted. Good job!

I heard the blades don't last long?.

Excelente video

It means whatever the local inspector says it means…

VERY helpful. I was just crawling around in the attic and went downstairs to disconnect a light fixture from below so I could require it. I promptly forgot which wire was hot and which was neutral. I could guess but thought I’d be safe and double check. Thanks Bill!

Most refrigerator receptacles are not readily accessible. I don’t see the need for the requirement. I think they’re running amuck. I think Texas and Georgia reviewed and reversed the GFCI requirements for Outdoor AC Compressors because of the danger to people from a nuisance trip was greater than the risk of electrical shock.

This guy did not ream his cut joints. That valve is old i would have suggested changing out the gate valve for a ball valve. He should have removed the insulation b4 cutting copper tubbing. He buys alot of cutting wheels

There’s no better teacher on RUclips, this gentlemen is legit. Straight to the point, no unnecessary music, no bragging no selling no advertising or glorifying tools. Love this

How is it the inlet valve when it’s standing water?

Thanks Sparky!

Excellent job , both explaining and showing repair.

What about when it comes to bending that second 90. I can’t ever get the stub the same size. I use the star for the reverse 90 and it’s still not the same please help

As a layman I enjoy watching professionals work but I have two questions on this ev installation. I did not get a good look at the outlet, but if it was a four pin one, then I believe the code requires a neutral wire, the rationale being that it could have some other device plugged in at some time that might need both 240 and 120 feeds. Also, because the ev charger is not hard wired, should the breaker not be a gfci one. The same would apply to the two 120 breakers.

Hi, I would like to know waht is the model of the meter you installed? and the load center?

Not confusing at all. GFI's cause trips because of transients and cost a lot of money in food. Europe 's gifi 's are 10 ma. They work. Im putting a freezer in my attached garage. Going to be on a single circuit and single receptacle no gfi. The manufacturer does not recommend the GFIC .

Your title show it as article NEC 252.92(B)

What do you think about bending these rolls? How long do you think it takes to learn this technique for someone who has never done it? I work in another country and the installation system looks completely different. Bending looks difficult and very precise to measure

I’ve been doing electrical 8 years and I still can’t do this. Lol

Well, then, i'd like to see how to properly bond a metal box, lol 🤷‍♂️. I'll look up a video for that now, but if anyone can share that, i would greatly appreciate it.

I wish they would get rid of knockouts in majority of equipment. I'd rather drill my own all day long

Que El senor mi Dios lo bendiga

Why in the world would you even install that way. That makes no sense

But what about when my fan and ligt only com whit light wire only come white and black but not blue wire to conet wit the red wire coming front the switch

Thank you so much!!

I always thought "concentric" 90s meant that each conduit run had a larger radius so that the 2" spacing is maintained at all points.

Does it come with the tripod?

So informative and explained clearly!

Sparky, thanks for the video. I have a Rheem and when I power it down per your instructions I just cannot get flush to come out of the hot water side with the pump running. I have tried every power down configuration on RUclips with no luck. I can lift the pressure relief and it will flow through there, but not out of the hose. I’m stumped.

In a world where I run screw pipe, the most difficult bend I've had to make are box offsets in 1" plastibond. lemme tell you, I've learned to despise all other benders that aren't ideal brand.

If you don’t want to replace the wire you can replace it to a Gfci outlet which has the same safety not requiring ground

Mr. Sparky. Where your conductors return to the MLO Sub panel, from the transfer switch, the bending radius and gutter width shall conform to 312.6, "Deflection of Conductors". I am assuming your using 2/0 copper or 4/0 aluminum conductors. The gutter space does not seem to match Tables 312.6a or 312.6b. Can you explain your conductor bending calculations? I'm in the 2017 NEC.